Friday, March 18, 2011

Stealing Hearts

Discovery #50: Palestine is stealing my heart.

Today I walked up and down the hills of Bethlehem talking with friends and gazing out at beautiful mountains, raggedy sheep, aged shepherds, and life beyond the Wall.

A settlement poke into our view and Jabra and I discussed the refugee history of the Palestinian and Jewish people. But politics and history are not what this post is about, because what has stolen my heart about his land is her people. The politics I discussed with Jabra are not what warmed my heart but rather the simple fact that it was happening.

Another friend, Dana, after knowing me for only 24 hours or so, walked across town with us to get the most amazing frozen yogurt and then invited me to her home (but I had to decline because I only got five hours of sleep the night before and desperately needed a nap!).

She and I talked and giggled. We laughed about the roadside sheep being Jordon's brother and sisters. We bonded -- I think -- and culture and friendship were exchanged.

Jabra later told me about what it was like living under Israeli oppression in Ramallah during the Second Intifada in 2002. He told me he would have been arrested for no reason if he had only been a few years older at the time. We talked about  the fact that violence breeds violence and hatred breeds hatred. We talked about the seemingly endless cycle of it all.

I asked Jabra many hard questions this afternoon and he answered them all with such sincerity and patience. What I didn't have have to ask for was his friendship. That just happened all on its own.

The friendships I have found in this place have been amazing, whether our discussions are about ice cream or justice. Yet, I fear that, somehow, the world will reduce Palestine to her Israeli occupation and political conflit -- but this is not who she is. Though she is not without her problems, she is beautiful. Friendly. Nuanced. Diverse. Homey. Welcoming.

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