Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Protests and the Muslim Brotherhood

Thought I live in Cairo, I am going to bet that some of you are more up on breaking Egyptian news than I am given that I don't have a TV and my internet connection is unreliable. However, the journalist in me can't help but post about the anti-government protests that have been happening here over the past two days. Before I begin, though, let me again assure you that I am safe and not in harms' way. Cairo is a huge city and most of the images you see on the news are just as new to you as they are to me (since we have been directed to stay away from any sort of protests and our neighborhood is completely peaceful).

The following thoughts come from both my experiences in Cairo, the "word on the street" that may not bet getting much press attention, and from a lecture by an Islamic history professor at the American University of Cairo who has lived in Cairo for the past 13 years. I will refer to her as Rachel.

Discovery #34: The Muslim Brotherhood is NOT behind these protests.

Here in Egypt there are two political parties, the National Democratic Party and the Muslim Brotherhood. As I mentioned in a previous post, the Muslim Brotherhood (MB) have been "allowed" to run in elections, however, all candidates are usually arrested a week or so prior to elections. Basically, the MB is the only political opposition. And American isn't too fond of that.

In light of this, it commonly known that the U.S. spends a hefty amount each year to keep current President Mubarak in power: Egypt is the second largest receiver of U.S. aid next to Israel. In exchange for this, Mubarak stays in power and the MB does not get elected.

So, yesterday, when thousands of Egyptian citizens rallied on the streets of Cairo to protest the economic and human rights issues in Egypt as well as to demand that Mubarak step down, the government claimed it was the MB. Why? So that U.S. would be more likely to come out in favor of the government rather than the people calling for democracy. Also, this was a government effort to minimize perceptions of a revolution and to skew the reality that many Egyptians are not happy with the current government.

Egyptians are also now - and have been for a while - in a crisis of "the devil we know is better than the devil we don't know," this is to say, "While life isn't the greatest under Mubarak, we don't know what life would be like under the MB." And, to be honest, even analysts are not sure. The MB is know for sending out contradictory information and the organization is comprised of both liberals/progressives (who would establish a completely democratic state) and conservatives. Despite the unknowns, however, some Egyptians are willing to take the risk.

According to Rachel, "Egypt is stalled politically until the MB is allowed to rule."

She doesn't think this will happen anytime soon though. Given her research and observations, she says it is "Naieve to think that we could go from Mubarak into a democratic society. Democracy means you have a personal voice and people here wouldn't know what to do with this."

So what can we expect as a result of these protest? Probably not much of a change, she says. If Mubarak is ousted, he will probably be succeed by his son or another military ruler similar to himself. Rachel does hope, though, that these protest could discourage the coming to power of Mubarak's son.

While she doubts that there are enough people who will participate in the current protest - given that Egypt's illiteracy rate is 50% and it is mostly the educated who oppose Mubarak - to oust Mubarak, she IS hopeful that it could mean that his son would not run for "election." According to her, almost ALL Egyptians - even the uneducated - oppose this as they see it as a move backwards towards monarchy.

I know this has been a rather long rant but I hope it helps you understand a bit about what is going on here right now. If you have any questions or thoughts, I would love to hear what you think!!

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Side note: My program is headed to Luxor tonight to see some historical sights and spend a few days in the sun. I am very excited for a long weekend and some much needed time to STUDY Arabic and history :) We will be back Saturday night and I probably won't have access to internet while I'm here. There are no riots in Luxor, however, so you can rest assured that we'll have a peaceful and safe trip!

Facebook (NOT) blocked

Correction: Early reports by TechCrunch.com and Twitter users that the Egyptian government had blocked Facebook have turned out to be false. Though it is unclear if Facebook could be blocked over the next few days, it is not currently blocked.

Facebook (possibly) blocked

In light of recent protest, the Egyptian government has begun taking steps to stop anti-government movements. They blocked twitter yesterday and appear to have just blocked Facebook as well. In light of this, I have put my blog on the public domain so please let anyone know that they can get in touch with me through here or through email!

Please know though, that I am completely safe and in no means in harm's way. Cairo is a huge city and most of the images you see on the news are just as foreign to you as they are to me (since we have been directed to stay away from any sort of protests).

Police Day

Discovery #33: National holidays can be turned into days of protests.

Today was Police Day here in Egypt. It's a day to "celebrate" the police, however, most citizens dislike the police and see the holiday as a joke.

Inspired by the uprising in Tunisia and a day off of work, there were several anti-government protests in Cairo today. Though I didn't see any first-hand, I did notice a stronger police presence in the streets today and some friends of mine passed a metro station that was being tear gassed. 

Please don't worry about me. I'm completely safe and not in any danger. Egypt takes very good care of their "tourists," of which I am one.

Goodnight all!

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Walls with Ears

Discovery #32: Apparently, walls have ears in Egypt.

Last night while we were out to dinner, one of the guys told a joke about the fact that if President Mubarak died the whole country being happy about it. So, I proceeded to mention to the table that I had noticed that no one in Egypt likes Mubarak, who's in his late 70s and has been ruling for several decades. Everyone kind of quieted down a little bit and Wael told me, "Well, we're in public right now. We all love Mubarak....they have a saying here, 'The walls have ears.'"

Later on the metro, he expressed the same concern to Christine when she asked about the church bombing in Alexandria that happened on Christmas Eve. 
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For those of you who are wondering, I believe that Egypt is considered a "democratic" state; however, Mubarak never loses elections and members of the opposing party, The Islamic Brotherhood, all end up somehow getting arrested before an election takes place. From discussions I've had with a couple of Egyptians, it seems people do not like him because of his corruption and his inability to create jobs to employ Egypt's educated population (EVERYONE here goes to college.).

Friends

Discovery #31: Friendship is a wonderful thing.

Last night MESP held a cultural exchange night during which they invited 28 Egyptians over to the Villa and paired each one with a MESP student. These were, as they call them, our "Egyptian friends." Unfortunately, my friend, Meram's mother was sick last night so she was unable to make it, but I met her fiancée, Wael. Wael was very friendly and he and I had a nice conversation last night.

This afternoon I received a call from Wael informing me that he was having a surprise birthday party for Meram today at Fudruckers (yes...they have a Fudruckers in CAIRO!). So after finishing up a MESP commitment this evening, Christine and I headed over to Maadi to meet Wael and Meram. 

Christine and I were very proud of ourselves and pretty excited because this was our first real outing in Cairo without the supervision or accompaniment of the group. After asking some other people in our program for directions, we made it do the Metro station and took the metro out to an area called Maadi. From there, we used our broken Arabic and the help of a few people to catch a taxi to Fudruckers. Meram and Wael were there with Wael's twin brother and his fiancée, Carolyn, and another one of their friends. 

It was so wonderful to meet Meram, who has such a kind and gentle spirit, as well as Carolyn who was quite funny and talkative. Christine and I also loved seeing Meram and Carolyn's interactions with their fiancées! After being told that it was culturally unacceptable for us to interact extensively (i.e., beyond a simple greeting) with Egyptian men we met randomly, it was so refreshing to legitimately meet some great Egyptian men and see them treat their fiancées like princesses! 

It was a wonderful evening and Christine and I made it home by 10:30 or so. Wael called me a half an hour later to make sure I made it home alright. So today, I'm thankful for wonderful people who are willing to share their lives with me after only meeting me once. Thank you Wael, Meram, Carolyn and others for a beautiful night. 

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Classes

Since I'm procrastinating doing homework, I figured I should blog. It's the next best productive thing I could do, right? ;)

Discovery #29: The MESP staff isn't joking when they say this is going to be a busy semester!

We started classes last Wednesday with an hour and a half Arabic class and an hour and a half lecture from Dr. Holt. My Arabic class is taught by Madeha and though she's sweet and wonderful, boy does she power through her lessons! I've had 3 Arabic classes so far and every night we either have homework or studying to do.

Today we went over the Arabic script. I was so incredibly lost! Each of the 28 Arabic letters has at least 2 different written forms, which vary depending on that letter's placement in the word. Reading and writing the script is truly an art. It's incredibly beautiful and anything but easy.

We have a few tests and quizzes in our Arabic classes, but other than that our grades for the semester depend on papers we write. We have 7 papers this semester, all 6-10 pages long! The program is sort of set up like grad school, with assigned books and papers and intermittent lectures AND tons of self-motivation!

Though it seems like a lot of work, I'm feeling pretty confident that I'll get through it alive :)

Discovery #30: I fall asleep waaay too easily!

Wednesday night we were summoned back to the Villa at 6 pm to watch The Message, a film about the life of Mohammed. Since Muslims believe you should not make an image of Mohammed, the film never showed Mohammed but instead used interesting camera angles to acknowledge his presence.

The film was quite interesting but, unfortunately, was about 3 hours long. And since it was the end of a long day, I promptly fell asleep about halfway through...